Callao, Peru

Callao, Peru
ms Amsterdam
January 14, 2013

There are no flat roofs in Lima. All the roads in Lima are flat. There are no gutters on the houses or along the curbs. No one owns an umbrella. It doesn't rain in Lima. The only recordable precipitation is from the humidity in the air. The Humboldt Current flows up the coast of South America from Antarctica which keeps the sea cold, the coast foggy and the land arid.

It's a 45 minute drive from the port city of Callao (k+eye-yow) to Lima. Having never been there before we opted for a morning tour of the highlights of Lima guided by the charming Rocio aka Rosie. And having never been there before I was quite surprised to find an immense (10 million people, a third of the country's population) city with a small central "old city" surrounded by miles and miles of mostly low-rise buildings. This area is prone to earthquakes so all of the original structures are long gone, rebuilt multiple times. This little fact gives one pause while standing in the former refectory of the Convent of San Francisco and looking way, way up to see the missing ceiling (fell down), fractured frescoes (fell down) and replacement chairs (originals crushed by falling ceiling and frescoes). Being a native Southern Californian I've been well-taught to seek out the safe spot when entering any building in an earthquake zone. Not so easy in a building made of unreinforced brick, covered with "plaster" made from the local dirt.

Lima is made up of 40-something separate districts each with its own city hall, mayor, etc. with a single mayor to oversee it all. Right now that mayor is a woman, the first to hold the job. Quite obviously there are no zoning laws because every neighborhood seems to be a jumble of single homes, tiny restaurants, shops, apartment buildings, doctor's offices, schools and on and on. There are traffic police at every major intersection but mostly for show. Cars, motorbikes and little buses (24 passengers) are zooming, ignoring lane lines, traffic lights and afore mentioned police.

Education through high school is mandatory in Peru. This law applies to residents of Lima more than those in the country where the families are large and the eldest children are expected to drop out and help support the family. Summer vacation is January through the end of February. In Lima there are private, parochial and public schools with good and bad of each. Parents will sacrifice much to afford school fees for the best. Only high school graduates can hope for a government job with well-paying careers saved for college grads. The median income is about $1200-1800 US per month. There are definitely upper, middle and lower classes. The middle income lot seem to spread over most of the city with lovely enclaves for the rich and horrifying hillside shanty towns for the poorest. There is now health insurance for all children but the public insurance for adults provides for little actual health care. Any who can have private insurance, too. All the public hospitals are painted a bright blue. Because of the humidity the skies are never blue but rather a hazy, bluish gray so many of the public and private buildings are painted bright colors.

The Miraflores district of Lima is perched on the cliff overlooking the Pacific. It reminded us of Corona del Mar or Santa Monica where you can look down on the beach from the roads running along the cliffs above. It's a lovely area with major hotels and shopping on the land and throngs of surfers in the chilly water. Four o'Clocks and bougainvillea cover the hillsides. All of the flora are similar to that found from Santa Barbara to San Diego--bougainvillea, jacaranda, eucalyptus and acacia trees, lots of geraniums. Because of the lack of rain Lima is not the greenest of cities but the parks and street medians that are planted are all hand watered and look beautiful.

There are 43 Starbucks in Lima plus lots of McDonald's, Burger Kings, Pizza Huts and KFCs. And casinos! Everywhere! We have some tablemates at dinner who have vowed to play $20 in a casino in every country and/or on every continent. Hey, a goal's a goal! Peruvians love Chinese food and call the cuisine and restaurants Chifu. There is also a strong Italian influence in Lima. People in the city often say ciao instead of good bye.

So, ciao, amigos!