Cartagena

January 21, 2017 - Cartagena, Columbia

40 or so years ago my brother shipwrecked sailing on a C 48 in the channel between Aruba and Cartagena. They hit high winds and seas, lost their mast and ended their epic journey in Columbia. Not only was our crossing so smooth you couldn't tell we were moving but we landed in the prosperous, safe harbor of Cartagena rather than the guerrillas-with-guns who were the norm when John arrived decades ago.

Today Cartagena is a city of millions, the third largest in Columbia. The bay is enormous with large, bustling commercial areas stacked high with containers or surrounded by acres of imported cars. 280 or so cruise ships stop in Cartagena during the season from October to May. Lucky us, just as in Aruba yesterday we were the only cruise ship docked so we didn't have to share with thousands of other visitors. Not to be selfish, but being an only child in port is so nice.

The tour buses were all lined up and ready to go when we disembarked. Another smooth operation both on the ship and ashore. There were excursions going here, there and everywhere. We chose a tour developed by the Discovery Channel to the national aviary, a 45 minute bus ride from the port. It's a relatively new excursion so one of the ship's videographers was along to record it for the photo disc they make of every cruise, available for purchase, of course.

There were only 20 of us, the nice new little bus had great a/c, Sergio, our guide, teaches English so was easily understood and our driver, Mr. Wilmer, was wearing a Braves hat! American professional sports, baseball, football and basketball, are broadcast here. Sergio was a big fan of the Warriors and Cavaliers. ESPN is everywhere!

We learned that Columbia with 1900 is second only to Brazil with the number of different species of birds. The aviary is six years old and has 200 or so different species of birds plus some impressively large iguanas lolling about. The facility is quite large with a rambling path that takes you up down and around, some times in the open, sometimes inside of expansive cages. Each location featured large color photos of the birds labeled in Latin, Spanish and English to help identify what you were seeing. It took us nearly two hours to do the circuit. It was hot but because it is the dry season not as humid as expected, or maybe I've lived in Atlanta too long. Some of the Northeners were looking a bit limp.
Water birds, song birds, little birds, enormous birds and so many bright, vibrant colors. Sergio knew his birds and was a great spotter.

In between the ship and the aviary is a mix of commercial, both little shops and massive chemical, oil and cement plants, and residential, predominantly lower working class with some middle class. The swank neighborhoods are across the bay. Sergio said that the poorer earn around $300 a month, the middle class $2000-3000. There is no unemployment insurance or welfare so, as he so eloquently put it, "If you don't work, you die." School is mandatory to age 17 or 18. University was once out of reach to the poorer, but now is more accessible with night,  week end and online classes which allow the students to work during the days.

The traffic patterns are imaginative with a combination of big trucks, small cars and thousands of small motorbikes. Gas was pretty expensive. I forgot to ask Sergio the cost of owning a car but I guess it's out of reach for the majority of the population. Every once in a while a mule cart would appear.
We were back on board around 1:30; the ship sailed soon after bound for a 5:15 am arrival at the Panama Canal.

The weather has been ideal. Hot, but no storms or rain to upset any outdoor plans either ashore or on board. Good thing. Among other things the movie theater is outside on the top deck with a  monster screen designed to be viewed either during the day or at night. The NFL games are scheduled to be broadcast there tomorrow. Tonight at dinner we sat with a couple of women from Canton, up the interstate from Kennesaw. Jane said her 32-year-old son, also on the trip, was a big Falcons fan. We're vastly outnumbered by Green Bay, Steelers and Patriots fans. My independent survey of dinner and lunch companions says probably 500 to 1 so a Falcons victory would be especially sweet.