At Sea and Norway, August 14-18, 2017

At Sea and Norway, August 14-18, 2017

"We left 5:30ish for Norway, two sea days east. The seas have been so calm so far. Is that tempting fate to write that?"

That was my last sentence as we left Iceland and as it turned out it WAS tempting fate. We ran into our first rough water of the entire trip. Suddenly bowls of green apples and soda crackers are at the front desk, the after dinner mint guy is doling out little bites of candied ginger instead, lots of "Do Not Disturb" signs on cabin doors at dinner time and racks of little white barf bags outside of the elevators on every floor. It wasn't a full-on batten down the hatches drill, but walking in a straight line was a challenge. Not many people in the Crow's Nest for cocktails (every so often the ship would climb up a big swell and then bang down, rattling every bottle in the bar) or in the dining room for dinner. The show featuring the in house singers and dancers was canceled; it was just too rocky for them to be safe.

Gradually the seas settled a bit but the weather was just crummy alternating between grey and rainy or grey and foggy. Every one was pretty sanguine about it. The mantra continues to be better to have crummy sea days and sunny port days than the opposite.

Alesund

Our first port in Norway was the picturesque Alesund between Trondheim and Bergen. Most of the town burned to the ground in 1904 so it was rebuilt in Art Nouveau style although it looked closer to a Hanseatic Art Nouveau to me. The tops of many of the buildings had that distinctive stepped up facade seen along the canals in Amsterdam. On last season's Amazing Race TV show the contestants raced through Alesund to the island of Giske and then to the lighthouse on the island of Godoy. We went on HAL's version--a leisurely drive through the underwater tunnels that link the various islands that dot the harbor.

The submarine tunnel system is very impressive. The bus is zipping along and suddenly into a tunnel and down under the sea. I think the longest one we went through was 5 km or so and I'm guessing replaced a ferry. The islands are made of low mountains, dotted with farms and homes. Those who don't farm, fish. It's all green with lovely flowers in the gardens. Maybe 200 residents on each island. Along the shore are boat houses built with shared walls and peaked roofs. Each has an apartment above the boat house. Tiny house living right on the water. Giske island was the birthplace of the Viking Rollo who conquered Normany in 911and was the antecedent of William the Conqueror.

The famous lighthouse (it appears that ALL lighthouses on the Atlantic are famous) is another tunnel ride to the island of Godoy. The topography is like all the other islands, with a small fishing village, more small farms, pretty gardens and a very picturesque lighthouse on a windswept point.

On our way back to the ship we drove up to the top of Mount Aksla for a commanding view of the harbor and surrounding islands. It was still sunny but very crowded. We weren't the only ship docked that day and Mount Aksla seemed to be on everyone's itinerary. Like many cities on the seacoast, Alesund has tens of thousands of cruise ship passengers visit every summer. Our guide told us that because of the sea currents they didn't have snow during the winter. Hmmmm. Then why was every building topped by a tall, peaked roof with a row of metal loops along the edge to keep the snow from falling off and hitting someone below?

We'd thought about getting off in the town center to wander about and then ramble back to the ship but then the rains came discouraging wandering and rambling.

Bergen

Next port was Bergen. I remember visiting there 40+ years ago, especially the big seafood market on the harbor. Now it is still very pretty with houses climbing up the hills that surround the harbor and endless shops catering to tourists. It's a fairly easy walk to town, a packed town as a big P&O ship was also docked. We'd decided just to wander and amble (the weather was cooperating this time) rather than drive around the fjord to see yet another waterfall. Bergen is the largest port and the second largest city in Norway. I remember Norway being very expensive 40+ years ago and that certainly hasn't changed. Later people were exchanging "guess what I paid for lunch" stories. Probably a combination of where it is plus the captive audience.


Eidfjord

This little village (population 900) is at the end of a fjord. We cruised up the fjord a couple of hours ahead of schedule, arriving at 8 am instead of 10. Surprise, surprise! I wasn't awake to see it. But once again, we've gotta go back the way we came in and at a much more sensible hour (6 pm) so I'll catch the views on the flip flop.

The HUGE Viking Seas beat us in and so got the dock leaving us to hover off shore and a short tender ride to the pier. Being up at the end of the fjord, the water was absolutely flat so the tender trip was a breeze. Even the wheelchair bound could make it, helped by several stewards to carry the chair to the tender and then help the person down the 13 steps to the tender platform. Everyone knows the drill, murmurs "There but for the grace of God" and waits for the successful transfer.

Eidfjord is a tiny little place with several hotels and restaurants, a nice art gallery, a couple of grocery stores (so much fun to check out the prices--bananas approximately $1.50/lb) and shops. One had the usual touristy souvenirs but the other had only "made in Norway" merchandise, some of it handcrafted AND a yarn store in back! Jim assumed the position, standing out on the sidewalk in the sunshine with a bunch of other husbands smart enough NOT to go inside and just get in the way. The shop had the most adorable knitwear for toddlers and children but said toddlers and children would have to live near the Arctic Circle to ever wear it. It seemed to us that Eidfjord must also be a vacation destination for Norwegians. Such a lovely spot with fishing, sea kayaking and canoeing and glacier hiking just on the other side of the mountains.

Cruising out of the fjord was a treat, despite the rain which started just at the end of our stop in Eidfjord. We spotted single houses as well as small groups of buildings here and there along the shores. Some appeared to be accessible by road but others had small docks out front and probably got to and from by boat. It would be great fun in the summer. Not so much in the winter.

Sea Day on the 19th and then an early arrival in Rotterdam on the 20th. Some passengers are getting off there as well as the Captain. New people will board along with the new Captain and, let's hope, supplies! Our favorite waiter in the Crow's Nest said they ran out of peanuts a few days ago and were down to the last can of mixed nuts to ration out to the cocktail crowd. Can hard tack be far behind?