UH, Oh

 May 27, 2022

Bar Harbor, ME

Uh oh

Yesterday, when we docked in Halifax the weather was perfect, the sea like glass. This morning when we arrived near Bar Harbor, a tender port, the wind was blowing 30-40 knots and the sea was very choppy. Uh oh.

When we reach the first US port, US Immigration comes aboard first thing to clear everyone before anyone can go ashore. It’s a simple procedure, show the man your passport and cruise card and move along to one of the crew members who punches the hole of death in your cruise card. That pretty much says, end of trip.We were having breakfast before our 8:45 slot with Immigration when the Captain came over the PA to announce it was too rough and windy to use the tenders right now, updates at 10 am. Uh, oh. At 10  he was back saying all shore excursions were canceled. But a bit later he announced the local whale watching ships were going to act as tenders.  We could look down from our balcony on the loading operation. The  local boats are  a bit bigger and a lot steadier than the ship’s tenders but we decided to stay on board. 

At 11:30 I got an email from Delta that it was time to check in for our flight home tomorrow. But, wait. Our nonstop from Boston to Atlanta is now a flight to West Palm Beach, quick plane change and then up to ATL. And it leaves earlier from Boston. Uh oh. Time to call the  Delta hotline number. The agent said it had been quite the week. Our flight had been canceled and we were rerouted on the next available. How lucky for us it’s Memorial Day Weekend and all nonstops to Atlanta are full.

Another of the things that has disappeared on the ship is the daily “newspaper,” a four page summery of the day’s news culled from the NY Times, plus papers from Canada, Britain and Germany. Without this we were really in a news blackout. The TV has a couple of news and sports stations that work sporadically. We don’t even bother turning it on anymore. This just reinforced the black out. We were aware of some Primary election results, the shooting in Texas but hadn’t a clue that Delta was canceling flights because of “weather and staff shortages.”  

May 28, 2022

On board Delta 1081, West Palm to Atlanta

We had no trouble getting from ship to airport this morning. It was easily the smoothest disembarkation we’ve ever experienced. Maybe 20 minutes door to door. So plenty of time for coffee and a bagel before our plane loaded. Easy flight to WPB and then from gate C4 to C3 to board this plane.  While we were waiting to board, we chatted with a young couple with a 7-month old trying to get to Texas. Then an older couple on day two of travel to Vermont. I almost felt guilty actually reaching our destination just a few hours later than originally scheduled. But not really. I’ve flown a zillion miles with Delta over the years so that loyalty was rewarded.

Our good fortune continued in Atlanta. Our arrival gate was fairly close to the escalator down to the Plane Train, our luggage was on the carousel when we got to baggage claim and our driver was at the curb.  Our plane touched down at 5:06; we walked into our apartment at 6:15.

Good trip. Short trip. Happy trip. Everyone on board the ship or on shore was so pleased to have the travel industry semi back to normal. We decided that probably most of the passengers were using up Future Cruise Credits that had been issued when the Pandemic shut everything down two plus years ago. And most of the passengers admitted that their friends and family thought they were nuts to get on a ship but the crew took pains to keep it as safe as possible. I figured there were probably more germs in line at Costco than enjoying a cocktail in the Ocean Bar on Deck 5. Just in case, we’ll use one of the government issued COVID test kits when we’re home just to insure that we are hale and healthy.

When I’m home I’m going to attempt to post some photos. I didn’t really take too many,but I can never resist taking a picture of a lighthouse.

All for now until we head to Alaska in early September for two weeks from Nome to Vancouver on a Scenic ship. New line for us, only 200 passengers. 

Until then….

Very Dirty with Three Olives

 May 26, 2022

Halifax, NS

Very Dirty with Three Olives

Five years have passed since the weather canceled our stop in Halifax. Today it’s bright and sunny with hardly a breath of wind so docking was easy and uneventful. We’re tied up at Pier 21, the Ellis Island of Nova Scotia. At one time, every immigrant was processed here. Nowadays the “processing” consists of a “Hi, Welcome” from yet another friendly Canadian. We were serenaded as we came down the gangway by a bag piper. Lots of Scottish influence here. Our guide, Cathy, wore a Stuart tartan kilt. Hap, the driver, said his kilt-wearing days were over. Come on, Hap, show us those knees.

Halifax is a much more commercial port and city than our previous stops. It is one of the largest natural, ice-free, deep water ports in the world. Home to nine colleges and universities and a population growing at 26% per year. Like anywhere else in the world, real estate prices are up, inventory is down, especially for rentals. Cathy breathlessly told us that rent on a two bedroom apartment in Halifax had jumped to $1800/month. That’s approximately US$1400. As current renters of a two bedroom apartment in Kennesaw, that sounded quite the bargain were it not for the location, location, location. Lots of building going on.

We stopped at the 16-acre Victorian garden in the middle of Halifax. It’s beautifully maintained by the city with a lake, gazebo, tea house, formal flower beds and 150 varieties of trees. And tulips. Hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of tulips in full bloom. They’ve got to be the favorite floral harbinger of spring up here. We’ve seen them in every municipal and home garden we’ve passed. After the garden we went up to the fortress on the hill above the city. This one is still an active base. Not sure if they’re waiting for those pesky French to storm the walls yet again. We missed the noon canon but we did see the changing of the guard all dressed up in a kilt, tall hat, etc. Not a real soldier but actors hired to entertain the tourists. 

And now off to Peggy’s Cove, an hour or so away on the rugged coast. As we drew closer the forests of pine and deciduous trees gradually gave way to granite. Peggy’s Cove has 35 full-time residents who live in brightly colored houses with steep roofs dotted along the narrow road that winds along the shoreline. The lighthouse is a classic white with red top, perched on massive hunks of granite rounded off by thousands of years of the blowing wind and pounding sea. The economy revolves around lobster fishing (lobster buoys in every bay and inlet) and tourism. There’s a bustling restaurant that serves lobster rolls and killer fish and chips plus a shop with the usual t-shirts, sweat shirts (it’s really windy and brisk) and other trinkets. Down the path are little shops that feature very tempting crafts made on site. I gave the local economy a boost.

Besides being the city that harbored the survivors from the Titanic, Halifax also sheltered 40 jumbo jets on 9/11. Cathy remembered the whole town banding together to provide shelter, food, clothes, etc to the passengers grounded by circumstance. She and I talked a bit about the musical telling the story of the jets who landed that day at Gander only to learn it’s now on Apple+. 

We had dinner at Canaletto, the Italian specialty restaurant on board tucked in a quiet corner on the Lido deck. In year’s past the setting and food haven’t been worth the effort, but the physical setting was revamped during the shutdown and the menu also reworked. Yummy.

Jim decided to go to the late show in the big showroom while I lolled about the stateroom. He came back afterwards to report that the  scheduled  performance by the ship’s troup was replaced by the vocalist and trio that are featured nightly in the Ocean Bar. Evidently some of the dancers had tested positive as had the cruise director. We’ve been wearing masks everywhere as have at least half of the passengers and all of the crew.

Very Dirty with Three Olives is my new go-to.

Wake Up Little Sydney, Wake Up

 May 25, 2022

Sydney, Nova Scotia

Wake Up, Little Sydney, Wake Up

Sydney is a sleepy town until the season officially gets underway next week end. There’s a lovely pedestrian boardwalk that winds along the coast line from the cruise terminal to the city. It’s sunny and mild, and how often do we get to stroll along the water’s edge? Big plans were to visit some of the shops and then have oysters for lunch. The issue now is, what survived two years without visitors from afar. I found the yarn shop I’d visited five years ago. Same lady running it. We went around the corner to the Cape Breton Craft and Art Gallery. Everything is made by local artists/artisans. From paintings to jewelry to wood, fabric and yarn items. Found something a little different for our son Jay’s birthday next week. A hint Jay, it’s NOT a T-shirt!

Still too early for lunch so we just retraced our steps back to the ship for a Flat White at the onboard “Starbucks” where everybody DOES know your name. Jim is once again, as he magically dubbed on every cruise, Sir James, to the waitstaff, bartenders, baristas, etc. This time I am M’am Susan. Dunno why.

The ship can carry 1400 or so passengers but only 900+ on this trip. The numbers will go up as the summer weather arrives, peaking in late September-October when the fall color blazes. We have no experience sailing on one of the mega ships, but even at capacity the HAL ships don’t feel crowded. On this trip, getting a reservation at one of the specialty restaurants is no problem at all so we’re taking advantage. The surcharges are ridiculously low, the food is wonderful and the waitstaff very attentive.

Tonight the Pinnacle Grill became Rudi’s Sel de Mer, a French seafood brasserie with a special menu, china, flatware. It was soooooo good. Jim had a tower of cold seafood and something that grazed in a meadow. I had Dover Sole, filleted and boned table side that was delicious. In years past when in Phoenix with The Girls we always went to a French place (Christopher’s?) for dinner just so we could have profiteroles for dessert so I had to order them at Rudi’s. Best. Profiteroles. Ever. I even recorded the presentation. I’ve probably watched that 8 second video a dozen times since.

Tonight I also tried my first Dirty Martini, vodka, straight up, two olives. Not bad but needs a little tweaking. Perhaps Extra Dirty with three olives next time. Jim suggested that I just ask for a jar of olives with a jigger of vodka, shaken not stirred. 

Gods, Goddesses and B. B. King

May 24, 2023

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

God, Godesses and B. B. King

What a very pleasant surprise to wake up to clear blue skies and bright sunlight! It’s still a bit windy and a bit brisk 12 C  (12 x 2 + 30 = 54 F, approximately) but none of the predicted rain. We’re docked at a pier right in front of  Charlottetown, the capital of the Province of Prince Edward Island; population of 40,000. I think 150,000 on the island. It’s connected to Halifax by ferry (carrying 150 and 250 cars each) and an eight or ten mile bridge to New Brunswick. Agriculture is the primary industry, specifically potatoes. Many varieties planted on 90,000 acres. Non citizens can own a few acres, permanent residents 1000 acres and corporations 3000 acres. Canada is very protective of agricultural land. The fields are laid out in very precise rectangles, all plowed and ready for planting. The earth is a terra cotta reddish color thanks to iron oxide in the soil. Being an island, fishing is also a big business. Specifically lobsters, oysters, mussels, scallops and some fish native to the waters. The highways and byways are mostly two lane. The Trans Canada highway is maintained by the federal government so is nice and smooth. The other roads, a bit bumpy and lumpy. The best were the dirt roads that went from the paved roads to the lighthouses. They are called Heritage Roads. Best branding ever.

We went from the ship to the new terminal building. Huge place with various shops, a snack shop, tourist info and, of course, WiFi. We left about 1:30 to tour a couple of lighthouses and a winery. The first lighthouse was the oldest on the island, built in 1846. I’d tell you the name if I could remember it. I do know that it was built of brick then clad with shingles to protect the brick from the sea air. Painted bright white with a red top as any lighthouse should be. Next we went to a newer one built in 1876, the Woods Island Lighthouse (I remembered to take a picture of the sign out front). The whole structure plus attached house for the keeper and family was moved to higher ground. Climate change has accelerated erosion of the shore line.

We were the first big ship to dock in over two years. 74 ships are scheduled to stop at PEI this season, most in September and October.

You better believe that everyone we encountered was happy to see us. The ladies running both lighthouses were thrilled to pieces. Canadians are nice, but PEI people? Beyond pleasant. Corinne, our guide, is a retired school teacher, an island native with extensive knowledge about every subject. Jerry, our driver, was a delight. Retired from farming and now dividing his time between driving charter buses and golf. (30 courses on the island) He seemed to know everyone, everywhere, even the random people out walking their dogs.

Our last stop was the Rossignol Winery, owned and operated by John Rossignol. What a character. Probably in his 70s. He has participated in all manner of extreme sports on land and sea, summer and winter. His wife is an artist. Her sculptures are dotted here and there in the vineyard (vines juuuuuust starting to bud) and in the winery itself. Lots of gods and goddesses and B. B. King. It’s a small operation. We tasted a decent white and then several fruit based wines, strawberry, blueberry and something very sweet. John said he’ll try crushing anything and then see what happens. The grapes and fruit are crushed in the fall and then stored, outside, in steel tanks. He says he putters with the blends over the winter. Quite an engaging fellow. He moved from Ontario to PEI in 1990. His winemaking started as a hobby and eventually became the first commercial winery on the island with a 45,000-bottle capacity. It’s a sweet set up on the shores of the Northumberland Strait separating PEI from Nova Scotia. His house, barn and boat are near the shoreline, visible from the winery.

Now, about the dandelions. I noticed they were everywhere in Quebec but I didn’t get a chance to ask why. Every lawn, median, field on PEI is bright yellow with them. So pretty, but dandelions allowed to run amuck? Today I learned why. Everyone with a lawn, median or field has been asked to leave the dandelions alone until the end of May so the bees can have at it. It’s  like sunshine poured across the land. I can’t imagine anywhere in the US of A encouraging that. The HOAs in the metro Atlanta area would lose their ever-lovin’ minds. Which in itself might be a fun reason to suggest it!

And before I forget, one of the changes on board the ship is reduced use of plastic. Spefically water in plastic bottles is not sold on the ship, rather cans of water with “More Ocean Less Plastic” on the label. The cans are the same size and shape as any soda but it is beyond weird to pull the tab and not hear any fizzy noise. Just plain still water. Good for the environment but not so good for tucking in your tote to take along when going ashore. I must confess that I bought a plastic bottle of water in the terminal today. I plan to transfer my can of water to the bottle to take ashore with me. Remind me to make a contribution to some organization to compensate for my carbon footprint.

And one last thing, regular gas is 2.04 per liter in Canada. Using my handy Unit Plus app, that works out to about US$ 7.70 per gallon. Chatted with a man from Riverside today. His last fill up was 5.79/gallon. It was 4.09 when we left Georgia.

We left PEI around 6 pm and will dock in Sydney tomorrow at 8 am. We’re just going to knock about the place. I remember from a stop there five years ago that it was a very walkable city with a great yarn shop among other things. Jim says I’m thinking about Bar Harbor. We shall see tomorrow who is right. 

Cruising the St. Lawrence

 May 23, 2023

At sea (at River?) Cruising the St. Lawrence

I’d forgotten that we had a little hiccup yesterday afternoon when we returned from our excursion in and around Quebec (keh-beck). We got back to the cruise terminal (nice, big place with lots of chairs and wifi) around 3:15 prepared to quick step down the covered pedestrian runway (like a 500 foot jetway that runs from the terminal down to the ship’s gangway) in time for the 3:30 All Aboard but were stopped in the terminal. The runway was closed while some passengers who had tested positive were escorted with luggage off the ship to a waiting dark grey van. Da da daaaaah. Bye, bye ship, hello quarantine. But this meant that the entire passenger runway from terminal to ship had to be disinfected before we could enter it. Did I mention it was 500 feet long?! Eventually we got aboard with the now-familiar Eau de Cleaner in the air and went to our cabin to watch the departure. We were on the quai side so could observe the hustle and bustle. Two long blasts of the horn but the ship was still tied up so??? Then we could see three people, two with canes, hobbling down the runway (it has glass walls), stopping every 30 or 40 feet to look out those glass walls. This was when one of the ship’s officers (Always looking very natty in dark trousers and white uniform shirts with identifying bars on their epaulets) walked from the ship up to greet them and very gently nudge them along. The ship’s crew is unfailingly polite to all the passengers, no matter the circumstances. Plus HAL has one of the highest loyalty rates in cruising, so I’m sure that’s an incentive to the crew not to piss off some rando that has 1400 sailing days on HAL. (We met an ancient Mariner last night who’s racked up 2700+ days at sea with HAL. You better believe EVeryone with a HAL name badge knows him on sight!)

Anywho, the stragglers eventually made it onto the ship, the lines were dropped, the horn was sounded and we pushed off. When docked the ship was pointed up river so our departure included a 180 turn by thrusters so we could proceed down river. It’s just fascinating that this ship can turn on a dime without help. Kind of miss the tugboats doing their dance.

The ship glided down the river all night (so smooth, couldn’t tell we were moving) at a respectable 18 knots. We woke up Monday (Thank heavens they still have the days-of-the-week carpets in the elevators so one can keep track) to fresh winds and a lot of white caps. The decks are so high from the surface of the water that it’s very hard to tell if the swells are one meter or ten, but even though it was very choppy, the movement was very slight. 

Sometime during days at sea the Captain comes over the intercom to give a position and weather report and tell anything unusual or interesting about where we are or where we’re going. In this case it was both. He announced that at 1:45 that afternoon the ship’s speed would be reduced to 10 knots as we entered a marine wildlife preserve area. Several varieties of whales migrate to this area. (Alas, all the chop and white caps make it impossible to spot any). One area between the Gulf of St Lawrence is off limits to commercial ships so we will swing wide around it and eventually approach our destination, Charlottetown, from the east, still maintaining the stately 10 knots.

By late afternoon the wind had calmed a bit as had the seas and the clouds had finally cleared so we had a stunning sunset. We didn’t do much during the day other than a couple of short receptions for 3, 4, and 5 Star Mariners. We’ll hit 5 Star on this trip (free laundry at 4, free Wifi and 50% discount at shops and specialty restaurants at 5). I did manage an  epic afternoon nap. Jim probably finished three more books while I was sawing logs.

We had dinner with a couple from Charlotte and another couple from Montreal. He was a retired educator and she was retired from something that took her everywhere. They were so charming and engaging, with great accents. We had a far-ranging conversation about Canada and Montreal and world politics and the relationships between world leaders. (They call Bush 41 “Father Bush.”) I remarked that we hadn’t really encountered any militant I’ll-only-speak-French people in Quebec. Jacque (of course his name was Jacque) confirmed that all the children in the Province studied English from first to twelfth grade. Plus he said, “Of the 38 or so million Canadians, only three million speak French, so bilingual they are.” Justine confirmed Real’s description of winter in Quebec, long, very cold and lots of snow. She was so elegant I just knew she could wear a scarf as only a French women can. 

We dock in Charlottetown tomorrow morning at 9 with plans to go visit a lighthouse (love me a lighthouse) and a winery in the afternoon. We’re prepared for the anticipated rain and cold. 

We all learn English, but we are French!

 May 22, 2023

We all learn English, but we are French!

We arrived in Quebec about 7 am, then ashore at 7:30 and off on a tour of the city and countryside by 8. The restored, old Quebec City is close by the dock. We wandered about, learning some history from our elfin guide, Real (Ray-Al). It was early Sunday morning so none of the shops or Funicular that climbs the hill (Quebec is atop a 300 foot cliff) to the impressive  Frontenac Hotel were open. We, instead, relied on Andre, the driver, to navigate the winding, narrow streets up to the castle on the hill. Wonderful views of the city below and river beyond plus a Starbucks!

If I learned anything about Canadian history in school, it is long forgotten. Quebec was constantly battled over by French, British, Spanish, American - you name it - forces. At one time the city was surrounded by a double set of walls with ditch in between. Some of the walls and gates are still standing. It had rained the day before we arrived so everything was clean and the trees and lawns so green. Like Montreal, Quebec has green belts with bicycle/walking paths along the river front for miles and miles. In the winter these become snowy paths (snow on the ground from November to April) for cross country skiing. Quebec also has some spectacular and enormous parks. The day was supposed to be cold and rainy but instead wasn’t quite sunny, but was dry. People everywhere taking advantage of the weather, walking, riding bikes, etc. Lots of challenging hills and electric bikes about. 

It is also very French. Primary signage is in French with English translation most of the time. We’d been warned that the Quebequois are a bit militant RE speaking French, but those we encountered were bilingual. A jaunty Bon jour, or merci from us was acknowledged with a smile. As Real told us, “we study English from first grade through twelfth, but we are French.” Hey, if that means pain au chocolat for breakfast, French it is!

We crossed a bridge over the St Lawrence (according to Real it needs to be replaced, and soon. (Probably would have been better to hear AFTER we’d crossed, not mid-bridge!) to Orleans Island, approximately five by 20 miles. Now I can’t remember why, but plots of land with 100 feet of river front and one mile deep were handed out to be farmed. By law the land must be farmed not developed into condos, so the farms stay in the families for generations. Real told us his niece farms flowers on their family’s land. It is a popular day trip from Quebec to buy farm fresh produce and fruit and enjoy a day in the country. We stopped at a maple syrup farm to learn a bit of that process and buy all things maple-flavored before recrossing that bridge and on down the road to a copper artisan. Don’t think I thought “a day in the country” meant stopping at shops, but oh, well. We spent a hour or so at a gorgeous minor basillica, St. Anne’s, then up the “old road” for lunch.

We sat with some nice people at lunch. Nice, normal people. Where are the wing nuts? The ones a bit off plumb that usually cross my path. It seems like everyone is fairly quiet, not an outrageous one in the bunch. I did notice that the live music repertoires around the ship have  morphed from Big Band (Adieu, Best Generation) to Motown and 60s/70s soft rock (And Hello, Boomer). It’s a short cruise, just seven days, a gentle itinerary with gentle activities that involves just the slightest bit of international travel and time changes. And speaking of, we do go from Eastern to Maritime and back to Eastern time on this trip. Even though we weren’t yet in the Maritime time zone, the clocks went forward an hour after we left Quebec. Captain’s ship, Captain’s time. No one really cares, but all those smart phones we’re relying on are not going to advance that hour until we cross that time zone line. Monday is a cruising day so it doesn’t really matter what time it is unless you’re an hour late for Sunrise Fitness. This will not be an issue pour moi…

So, you’re going to Montego Bay

 May 20-21, 2022

So, you’re going to Montego Bay

Our COVID test results, both negative, hit my email about 11 pm Thursday night. I think that’s the last hurdle to get from here to there.

Online check in wasn’t available (Canada requires a special form on a special app that provides a special QR code) so we had to do it at the airport. The one time I used a kiosk was 15 years ago; I went to Paris but my luggage went to Chicago. Even though I know in my mind that the system has improved, if I have luggage I always check in with an actual person. When I got to the counter I told the agent, “Fisher to Montreal.” And after much fiddling and scanning of our passports he said, “So, you’re going to Montego Bay.” Uh, no. Montreal. More fiddling and scanning and looking at that special QR on my phone and then he cranked out the luggage tags. You better bet I inspected those v-e-r-y carefully for flight number and airport code.

No problems getting through immigration in Montreal. It’s all done on kiosks. (They’re taking over the world.) Luggage arrived, awful cab driver to our hotel but that was a delightful surprise. I booked it because it was across the street from the cruise terminal. Very small (33 rooms) and very quirky. The theme is Expo ‘67. Every room has different decor. We stayed in the Mayor’s room. Photos of the various mayors of Montreal through the years, a Jetson chair, an actual phonograph with a selection of vintage albums and a bright gold, rotary dial phone. Probably the cleanest room I’ve ever been in this side of an operating room!

Hotel Uville is in the Vieux Montreal, old city. Narrow, cobblestone streets packed with houses, shops, restaurants, and historic this and that. Very walkable. Lots of visitors poking around and natives jogging, biking or dog walking (it was the start of a 3-day week end. We never did figure out the holiday.) The hotel staff is young, personable, charming and bilingual. Except for the grumpy cab driver, everyone we encountered seemed to be young, personable, charming and bilingual.

At the front desk recommendation, we had dinner on the patio of a nearby bistro. You never know if you’re steered to a place because it’s owned by the desk clerk’s brother-in-law or said clerk gets a little something something or because it’s good. Lucky us, it was really good, emphasis on seafood. We had to try the Beignet Poisson if only because the menu translated it to Fish Donuts in English. I mean, how many times will you see Fish Donuts on a menu? They were quite delicious; donut shaped rings of potato and fish and who knows what else, fried and served with a zippy sauce. The evening was balmy, the patio was tucked behind the restaurant, walled off by very old buildings. Moules Frites, a glass of wine and Beignet Poisson. What else does one need?

Saturday morning, after breakfast was delivered in a clever basket (juice, coffe, muffins, yogurt and crepes with maple syrup and the now requisite bamboo silverware that sticks to your tongue) we walked the short distance between Hotel Uville and the Notre Dame Basillica to take in the acclaimed interior. Who knew tickets were only available on line? You could get them on your smart phone right there unless your name was Susan Fisher. In that case I spent 30 minutes trying to navigate the system before giving up. At least I wasn’t the only one to throw in the towel. We took pictures of the exterior and then walked across the street to a souvenir shop where everything seemed to be printed with either a maple leaf or “Eh?” Bought some silly stuff from the (all together now), young, personable, charming and bilingual clerk. I refuse to exchange US$ for Canadian, so any incidental expenses go on the Visa card. So far, so good.

I Googled directions to the ship from the hotel and was told to exit the hotel, turn right and walk 700 steps. Easiest transfer ever. We were earlier than our appointed check in time, but were waved through to submit the various papers, forms, tests. Lots of new people working. The Zaandam was the first HAL ship to dock in Montreal since 2019 so the staff was all bubbly and excited to be working again. 

HAL spent some bucks on the Zaandam during the two + year hiatus. We were last on this ship in Japan, August 2019. New furnishings, carpet, drapes everywhere. The on board crew is really excited to be back. They’ve all been “home” for two years. For people used to being away for months at a time, that was quite an abrupt change.

Another change: the ship is nearly paper free. They still deliver a printed “What’s Happening” schedule for every day and written confirmations of any special dining reservations but everything else is on a HAL app on your phone. Jim has already said that without me showing him how he’d still be standing on the dock trying to figure out which screen to use. Actually he’d still be at the check in desk at Hartsfield trying to find the ArriveCan app. I can’t help but think there have to be people on board with flip phone Jitter bugs. Probably those I see at the Front Desk no doubt asking for paper print outs of their itineraries! There’s WiFi all over the ship now but still only two electric outlets in our stateroom.

We left the pier Saturday afternoon a little later than anticipated. Took a while to get ship’s supplies and passenger luggage on board and then we had to wait for a passing squall ahead and the tide. I think the captain said the current was running eight knots (the tide fall is quite dramatic this far north—15 to 20 foot difference between high and low tides) so he was waiting for the ebb tide. (Cue the Righteous Brothers) In this tugless world, the ship pushes away using thrusters to move it away from the pier but still parallel to the pier until it is mid channel and then off it goes. Departure never gets old. The thundering horn (I timed it; each blast lasts nine seconds), roiling water as the thrusters start up and people in waterfront apartments, parks and streets waving good bye. 

As we headed down river, the winds also came rolling down from the hills, clocking 60 knots. All outside decks were closed and we were instructed not to open balcony doors. Didn’t have to tell me twice.

We had dinner in the Pinnacle Grill. Still a lovely, quiet place with excellent food but, much to Jim’s dismay, the lovely, elegant Indonesian female wait staff is no more, replaced by some not so elegant men. Still the engaging hostess and maître d’ who circulate and visit with the diners so all is not lost.

You know what is lost? Chocolates on your pillow every night. And the towel animals. Wibi , our steward, said they told them it was because of COVID. Huh? He said it didn’t make much sense to the stewards. When we got back from dinner there was a towel lobster on our bed. Thumbs up to Wibi!

Au revoir, Montreal. Tomorrow it’s Quebec.

Here we go again, finally, at last, maybe?

 Faced with a use-it-or-lose-it situation with Holland America Future Cruise Credits we are flying to Montreal tomorrow and boarding the ms Zaandaam on Saturday,  landing in Boston a week later.

Besides trying to find winter/rain gear in Georgia in May (and a tip of the hat to the big REI store down the street from us) I’ve spent hours filling out one form or another to A) get on the plane B) enter Canada and C) board the ship. Everything has to be filled out within 72 hours of departure. And it’s the same information for each. The only thing pending right now are the results from our “medically observed” COVID test yesterday afternoon at the drive up window at the CVS. Fingers crossed that we get them by our Saturday boarding time. If we don’t, or fail I have no idea what’s next. Well, actually I do have an idea since I have acquaintances currently quarantined in Toronto. It is now recommended to bring an extra two weeks of any meds. Heaven help my fellow travelers if I run out of happy pills.

As our beloved travel agent Paula says, “Remember when travel was easy?”

It’s been nearly three years since we dusted off our passports. We’re so looking forward to traveling again, visiting both new destinations and old favorites plus meeting people along the way. Here’s hoping there’s an eccentric or two in the bunch to liven things up!