Gods, Goddesses and B. B. King

May 24, 2023

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

God, Godesses and B. B. King

What a very pleasant surprise to wake up to clear blue skies and bright sunlight! It’s still a bit windy and a bit brisk 12 C  (12 x 2 + 30 = 54 F, approximately) but none of the predicted rain. We’re docked at a pier right in front of  Charlottetown, the capital of the Province of Prince Edward Island; population of 40,000. I think 150,000 on the island. It’s connected to Halifax by ferry (carrying 150 and 250 cars each) and an eight or ten mile bridge to New Brunswick. Agriculture is the primary industry, specifically potatoes. Many varieties planted on 90,000 acres. Non citizens can own a few acres, permanent residents 1000 acres and corporations 3000 acres. Canada is very protective of agricultural land. The fields are laid out in very precise rectangles, all plowed and ready for planting. The earth is a terra cotta reddish color thanks to iron oxide in the soil. Being an island, fishing is also a big business. Specifically lobsters, oysters, mussels, scallops and some fish native to the waters. The highways and byways are mostly two lane. The Trans Canada highway is maintained by the federal government so is nice and smooth. The other roads, a bit bumpy and lumpy. The best were the dirt roads that went from the paved roads to the lighthouses. They are called Heritage Roads. Best branding ever.

We went from the ship to the new terminal building. Huge place with various shops, a snack shop, tourist info and, of course, WiFi. We left about 1:30 to tour a couple of lighthouses and a winery. The first lighthouse was the oldest on the island, built in 1846. I’d tell you the name if I could remember it. I do know that it was built of brick then clad with shingles to protect the brick from the sea air. Painted bright white with a red top as any lighthouse should be. Next we went to a newer one built in 1876, the Woods Island Lighthouse (I remembered to take a picture of the sign out front). The whole structure plus attached house for the keeper and family was moved to higher ground. Climate change has accelerated erosion of the shore line.

We were the first big ship to dock in over two years. 74 ships are scheduled to stop at PEI this season, most in September and October.

You better believe that everyone we encountered was happy to see us. The ladies running both lighthouses were thrilled to pieces. Canadians are nice, but PEI people? Beyond pleasant. Corinne, our guide, is a retired school teacher, an island native with extensive knowledge about every subject. Jerry, our driver, was a delight. Retired from farming and now dividing his time between driving charter buses and golf. (30 courses on the island) He seemed to know everyone, everywhere, even the random people out walking their dogs.

Our last stop was the Rossignol Winery, owned and operated by John Rossignol. What a character. Probably in his 70s. He has participated in all manner of extreme sports on land and sea, summer and winter. His wife is an artist. Her sculptures are dotted here and there in the vineyard (vines juuuuuust starting to bud) and in the winery itself. Lots of gods and goddesses and B. B. King. It’s a small operation. We tasted a decent white and then several fruit based wines, strawberry, blueberry and something very sweet. John said he’ll try crushing anything and then see what happens. The grapes and fruit are crushed in the fall and then stored, outside, in steel tanks. He says he putters with the blends over the winter. Quite an engaging fellow. He moved from Ontario to PEI in 1990. His winemaking started as a hobby and eventually became the first commercial winery on the island with a 45,000-bottle capacity. It’s a sweet set up on the shores of the Northumberland Strait separating PEI from Nova Scotia. His house, barn and boat are near the shoreline, visible from the winery.

Now, about the dandelions. I noticed they were everywhere in Quebec but I didn’t get a chance to ask why. Every lawn, median, field on PEI is bright yellow with them. So pretty, but dandelions allowed to run amuck? Today I learned why. Everyone with a lawn, median or field has been asked to leave the dandelions alone until the end of May so the bees can have at it. It’s  like sunshine poured across the land. I can’t imagine anywhere in the US of A encouraging that. The HOAs in the metro Atlanta area would lose their ever-lovin’ minds. Which in itself might be a fun reason to suggest it!

And before I forget, one of the changes on board the ship is reduced use of plastic. Spefically water in plastic bottles is not sold on the ship, rather cans of water with “More Ocean Less Plastic” on the label. The cans are the same size and shape as any soda but it is beyond weird to pull the tab and not hear any fizzy noise. Just plain still water. Good for the environment but not so good for tucking in your tote to take along when going ashore. I must confess that I bought a plastic bottle of water in the terminal today. I plan to transfer my can of water to the bottle to take ashore with me. Remind me to make a contribution to some organization to compensate for my carbon footprint.

And one last thing, regular gas is 2.04 per liter in Canada. Using my handy Unit Plus app, that works out to about US$ 7.70 per gallon. Chatted with a man from Riverside today. His last fill up was 5.79/gallon. It was 4.09 when we left Georgia.

We left PEI around 6 pm and will dock in Sydney tomorrow at 8 am. We’re just going to knock about the place. I remember from a stop there five years ago that it was a very walkable city with a great yarn shop among other things. Jim says I’m thinking about Bar Harbor. We shall see tomorrow who is right.