Cherbourg, May 18, 2017

Cherbourg, May 18, 2017

Another HUGE deep water port leveled in WWII, this time by the Nazis.  The town is a long ways from Paris and the other major cities in France so the port is not used for trade, but rather for Cruise ships, ferries and lots of pleasure craft.

This is the stop closest to Normandy and the D-Day beaches, cemeteries, etc. We toured those a few years ago and remember vividly the experience so opted to go to Mont Saint Michel instead, about 2-1/2 hours away. The weather looked pretty gloomy but the Shore Excursion chick assured me it was supposed to break by 10 am so I set off with a light hoodie, leaving rain gear in the cabin. It didn't stop raining the entire day! Again, where's the Weather Channel when you need it?

Normandy is as green and lush as neighboring Brittany. It is the center of horse breeding in this part of the world and is famous for rich dairy products, especially the thick cream from the Normany breed of cows, white with brown spots around the eyes that make the creatures all look like they're wearing sunglasses, white cattle and shaggy sheep with black legs and faces. Although the drive was long, there were only 20 of us on the bus so we got to spread out and enjoy the scenery. Away from Cherbourg, the farm and village buildings are much older, made of stone with steep roofs to drain the rain. Rolling hills of picturesque green meadows. Beautiful.

Thirty minutes or so before we actually arrived there,  suddenly MSM loomed in the distance. It is so distinctive -  pyramid-shaped rising 80 meters above the sandy shore. Where once it was marooned at high tide now a series of locks controls the water flow of the tides which can be very extreme this far north.

Once upon a time visitors could drive up to the entrance but now that is also carefully controlled. There are car parks quite a distance from the Abbey. From there you walk a good half mile to the shuttle station and get jammed into a vehicle that looks like a subway car on wheels. It drives across a causeway and for some reason that only the French can understand the shuttle stops another half mile from the Abbey entrance and out you go to finish the approach. Nathalie told us so much about the history of the Abbey what she didn't tell us was that to reach it we got to climb 300+ high stone steps in the rain. Sometimes the passage was so narrow we had to turn sideways and then the stairs would be circular and then suddenly wide, usually with no banister. We'd hang on to the stone walls, suck more wind and carry on.

It's one of those "How did they ever build this a thousand years ago?" places. Long ago 65 monks lived there, dedicating their lives to copying the Bible in elaborate, bejeweled illustrated manuscripts, taking four years to complete just one copy. Along the way it was also a prison, a celestial Alcatraz. Now there are a dozen sisters and monks in residence plus another ten people in the village at the base of the island. It's a chaotic jumble of hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops lining a cobblestone "street" not even ten feet wide crowded with tourists from all over the world, shoulder to shoulder, attempting to make the climb or maybe settle for half way (it's a maze of twists and turns, all made of stone and always up, up, up.)

We did make it to the church at the top, a mixture of different styles depending on when each section was constructed. The refrectory adjoins the church, with more chapels and rooms below. We climbed up this staircase and down that and then around another bend and still there was more. We descended to the village on the "easy" route, enjoying the odd pocket garden along the way. According to my iPhone I climbed 24 flights of stairs that day. I believe it! When we got back to the ship we each popped a couple of Aleve and then you-better-believe-we-took-the-elevator up to the Crow's Nest in time to watch our departure and take advantage of Happy Hour, buy one get the second for two dollars! If ever there was a medicinal cocktail.....

Normally we would shower and change for dinner in the dining room, but we were pooped little sailors, so managed the one flight down to the Lido deck for the casual buffet. It happened to be Indonesian Night--the tables were dressed with batik clothes, the serving staff was dressed in more batiks and the chefs had prepared dozens of Indonesian dishes. I asked one to select what he thought I should try which delighted him. I have no idea what it all was but it was delicious! We finished in time for the early show so we waddled down to the theater and oh, no, the performer was a mime magician. Oh, well, we were seated and not climbing stairs so how bad could it be. Surprisingly the guy was very entertaining even though never uttering a word. So whadaya know, two checks on the bucket list this day: Mont Saint Michel AND a mime magician!

Musings at sea, May 16, 2017

At Sea, May 16, 2017

Musings

Seven days at sea is a long time. This group of passengers is well-traveled so have easily adjusted to the two extra days. The newbies are a bit antsy.

Even though the Prinsendam is small it still has the usual roster of activities, exercise classes, ping pong and shuffleboard, bridge, Mah Jongg, movies, Casino tournaments, trivia contests and, of course, Bingo. The three lecturers have each given at least half a dozen presentations and the "Digital Host" teaches three or four classes a day on computery stuff. Jim has read six or so books so far, including a couple off the Tuscany reading list. I read the intros to those and then busied myself working my way through the Mary Higgins Clark oeuvre in the library. I figure I'll have time in the Amsterdam airport and then on the flight to Rome to skim the highlights of the Italian stuff. Old academic habits die hard.

Ship's Time
We had a lovely chat with our favorite waitress in the Crow's Nest about Ship's Time. As she explained it, Ship's Time is whatever the Captain says it is. And the clocks are changed whenever he says they are. When traveling eastbound, to allow the crew a full night's rest, we've moved the clocks ahead at 2 pm. Makes no never mind to the passengers. Going westbound the clocks fall back at 2 am so everyone gets an extra hour of sleep. There is a five hour difference between Bermuda and Western Europe, seven days travel time. He explained that he is also trying to keep sunrise and sunset at a "reasonable time." The crew loves his consideration of them and the passengers haven't missed 2-3 pm at all.

Why not fly?

One of my favorite questions to ask fellow passengers is, "Why didn't you fly to Europe?" The usual answer is, "I hate to fly and besides the fare for this crossing is cheaper than airfare." Many are also continuing on either on the Prinsendam or another ship for cruises around Norway and Great Britain and then up the Baltic. I met someone staying aboard until August! Also met a kid who just graduated from Georgia Tech traveling with his girlfriend until they fly home from Munich in July--a graduation present! He didn't have a job and didn't seem that concerned about finding one.

Which brings me to the thirty-somethings on board traveling with a parent while they are reassessing their options. Good grief! A rousing huzzah to all the grandchildren of James W Fisher who finished school and are gainfully employed.

That's Entertainment

The best show on the ship has been, hands down, The Uke Box, five Liverpool lads in their late 20s who have formed a Ukele Boy Band! As improbable as it sounds, they are trained musicians who absolutely brought the house down. They are also quite charming and adorable, catnip for all the grandmothers aboard who cannot resist telling them that they are charming and adorable. We've also enjoyed a very droll comedian who has Saturday Night Live on his list of credits, a trumpet "virtuoso", a very showy pianist and the ship's company of singers and dancers. These acts perform in the Showroom each night while a string trio, jazz quartet and piano man are playing each night in different bars and lounges. Something for everyone.

Siren song of Chantal

Ah, Chantal. She sits at the Future Cruise Desk conveniently located between the Showroom and Front Desk, pretty much the Main Street on board. She gives presentations most days about upcoming cruises, new itineraries not yet announced and waves a list of perks in front of you that are available only if you put that deposit down while on this cruise. (Cruise credits, free laundry, free Internet minutes, etc.) She printed out the itinerary for Jim for the World Cruise beginning in January of 2019 (the 2018 sold out within a month of announcement). I want to do the Singapore to Lisbon leg but not only has the cruise not been announced formally, the available segments have not either. Maybe when we're back on board in August. We were this close to booking the 68 day circumnavigation of South America beginning Jan 8th but we're going to be in California for a certain wedding March 3. A rare chance to see all of the Holdman Group in one spot. Wouldn't miss it!

Quimper, May 17, 2017

Quimper, May 17, 2017

We docked in Brest early this morning, our alternate port to Horta in The Azores. Brest is a HUGE harbor on the northwest tip of France. The city was leveled by the Allies prior to the Normandy Invasion in WWII so everything is new, well, 60+ years old which in the Old Country might as well be last week.

The Shore Excursion department scrambled to line up a few outings plus a shuttle to town. Because it is a commercial port, passengers can't just walk off the ship and then wander about. Security dockside isn't exactly air tight, but it is there.

We were met with cool temperatures and a constant light rain as we boarded our bus for the one hour drive to Quimper (kam-pare) that is far enough away from the port to have been spared bombing during the war. Our charming French guide, Nathalie led us through the cobblestone streets to the 13th century cathedral in the center of the oldest part of town. And what a nifty town it is! It's far enough off the usual tourist track that the town is actually a town for the residents with shops they use. Not a Diamond International or Del Sol T-Shirt store to be found.

This is Brittany famous for crepes and butter. They still speak Breton although French is the primary language. All the street signs are in French and Breton which is pretty indecipherable. Nathalie confirmed that. She told us that children are taught French in schools with Breton left to the older generations. She said her parents would speak in Breton when they didn't want her to understand.

It rains a lot in this part of France which means the countryside is very green and lush, very nice for the cows plus the Chesnut trees, hydrangeas and rhododendron which were all in bloom. All in all, despite the rain, a nice day.

This is the Captain.

At Sea, May 12, 2017

"This is the Captain. I have an important announcement."

It started out as a quiet day at sea. After breakfast I joined the other knitters and needlers up in the Crow's Nest to stitch and chat until it was time to go down three flights for "Ask the Captain." Once during most cruises, the Captain sets aside 30 minutes to answer questions from the passengers. It is always amazing, and comforting, to hear him answer queries about everything from technical to silly. And, as always, his number one job is to keep everyone safe and happy.

Someone complimented him on the smooth docking in some pretty tight quarters. The ship doesn't pull into the dock like a car into a parking place. Rather it pulls up parallel to the dock and then, using the thruster (learned that puppy has a 360 degree range) the ship slowly moves to the dock, still parallel, until the lines are secured. It really is an impressive demonstration of seamanship. He said the wind was the biggest problem. The dividers separating the stateroom verandas act like a multitude of little sails catching the wind and pushing the stern away from the dock. We've been on cruises when the wind is so strong coming straight at the ship that it bests the thruster making landing impossible.

This all comes into play later during lunchtime.

Yesterday was a bit gray with occasional showers but still in the high 60s. Woke up to the same this morning but the Promenade Deck was open for walking or deck chair sitting so no big deal. During the morning Q & A the Captain had mentioned that there was a low behind us and we were running close to 20 knots to stay ahead of it. Not two hours later the ding dong ding of the announcement bell rang and instead of the usual chirpy voice of V the cruise director we heard, "This is the Captain. I have an important announcement." Uh oh.

Evidently when he returned to the bridge he learned that the weather was worsening. The seas would be 2-1/2 to 3 meters high and of more concern to him, the winds would be reaching gale force. He explained that landing at Horta in the Azores would be way too dangerous so he secured a berth for us in a port in northern France on May 17th and had already altered our course. This means that we will steam past Horta and will now have seven sea days between Bermuda and our next stop. This also means that rather than a relaxing day on Sunday when most of the passengers are ashore, the Location Crew is now feverishly cancelling and refunding money for Horta shore excursions and setting up a menu of excursions for the substitute port. I think it's Brest, but I'm not sure.

The reaction amongst the passengers was pretty much, Meh. There wasn't that much to see and do in Horta anyway other than free wifi in the terminal. Probably the only disappointed person is Dr. Stuart, our Geologist on board. His scheduled talk this afternoon is, "Fire and Brimstone - The Origin of the Azores and the Myth of the Atlantis." The Azores are part of the Mid Atlantic Ridge, an underwater mountain range. Let me tell you, Dr. S was some kind of excited to be crossing that ridge and visiting one of the islands formed by volcanic eruption millions of years ago. Some say that the Azores could be the Lost City of Atlantis. I'm pretty sure that as a scientist he's going to debunk that but I could be wrong. Yesterday he had some pretty convincing scientific evidence that could prove the theory that life on Earth came from Mars as bacteria on a meteorite a bazillion years ago.

Tonight is the second Gala Night. Usually when the ship's itinerary is abruptly changed the Captain provides the wine at dinner to console the disappointed passengers. Remember, his Number One job is to keep us A) Safe and B) Happy. Altered Course = Safe; Complimentary Wine = Happy.

She broke my heart

At sea, May 10, 2017

"She broke my heart."

We left Hamilton 5-ish on Tuesday afternoon with the usual sonorous blasts of that deep, deep horn. The route goes parallel to the shore for a while giving me a chance to window shop as it were, trying to decide which house I would choose. The island is hilly, not mountainous, but definitely not flat, so the buildings cascade down to the water, all pastel with those white, white roofs. The stuff dreams are made of.

Ordinarily after the we're leaving tooooooot, toooooooot, toooooooot, that's it for the horn but as we were majestically heading across the HUGE bay towards open water, the triple toot sounded again and a couple of 30 foot or so boats under sail quickly tacked and got out of the way. Then more toots to encourage the  kids in a dozen little sailboats to change direction, like NOW. And they did. However the  three of the America's Cup contenders out practically flew across the water ahead of us. Quite the nautical send off.

Jaya from the dining room, our former busboy, has taken it upon himself to personally supervise our meal service at dinner. Previously we knew him as Dewa so tonight I asked why the name change and he tried his best to explain child naming in Indonesia with many lists and diagrams to illustrate. If I understood correctly, in each class there are four names for boys and four for girls. The first born is always named Name #1, second born gets Name #2, and so on. This means that all the Indonesians in the crew are called by one of those names. Needless to say, chaos would ensue so he was called by his surname, Dewa. And now he's Jaya.

Then we caught up on each other's lives. Seems Jaya had a serious girlfriend in Indonesia but the long distance thing didn't work for her. The crew are all on contracts lasting many months. It's common to move from ship to ship so they could be away from home for a year or more. In his case absence did not make the heart grow fonder. He found it harder and harder to reach her (technology makes these long absences a bit easier--email, FaceTime, Skype--to stay in touch with family back home) and when he finally returned home she had married someone else. Thus "She broke my heart."

But there is a happy ending to this tale. While home he stepped on something sharp playing soccer so went to the hospital where his injury was tended to by a lovely nurse practitioner. You guessed it. Like a "Cute Meet Rom Com" they're getting married in October!

Bermuda

May 9, 2017 Bermuda

We docked at Front Street in Hamilton this morning. Sunny, low 70s and low humidity.

Last night a group of women at the next table were planning their day on the island. We overheard much discussion about pink buses and blue buses, ferries and taxis. There are no rental cars, only scooters plus they drive on the wrong side of the road. Since I can't figure out which way to look before crossing the street in any wrong side of the road country, driving anything was out of the question. We opted for the Highlights of Bermuda tour.

Bermuda is 21 square miles with a population of 65,000. It's very clean and tidy with beautiful pastel painted houses. The roofs are steep and terraced made of slate coated with lime to reflect the heat. Downspouts capture any rainwater and feed it into huge cisterns (thousands of gallons) built under every house and building. The locals pride themselves on being courteous and polite to visitors.

Our tour group was just 20 people on a little bus. Three guesses who ended up in the back.  We covered what seemed like every inch of the island, north, south, east and west. I thought we were going to stop at the botanical gardens but our guide, Winston, was so excited about the upcoming America's Cup competition ("Our Cup. Our Island") that we spent the allotted garden time stopping here and there to watch the boats out practicing. They actually reclaimed land near the Dockyard area and built a huge complex of docks and cavernous warehouses for all the boats and paraphernalia for each participating country. These boats are f.a.s.t. We watched them idling about and then suddenly the sails were trimmed (Winston says the hand operated grinders are now pedal powered. I envision a life or death spin class.) and the boat would just take off, flying across the water leaving a phalanx of chase boats and jet skis doing their best to keep up.

There are countdown clocks here and there on the island. 17+ days until the real competition begins. In another harbor the Tall Ships are beginning to arrive. The transient yachts (sort of floating snowbirds that follow the sun) are docked or moored, prepared to spend an extra month here to enjoy it all before heading north to the US or east to the Meditrranean. It seems there are countless harbors (harbours?) and coves each filled with every imaginable craft. Winston has already begun to plan an America's Cup Cricket Week End House Partty. We're all invited.

I've never seen so many beautiful beaches with water so clear you can see fish swimming in the coves from the road. I didn't think the sand looked pink, but if they say it's pink why burst that bubble. The island was formed millions of years ago by two volcanoes that have since collapsed and retreated under the water leaving the coastline protected by reefs. Two immense round bays are in what were the the craters of those long ago volcanoes. The guest speaker on board is an animated and enthusiastic professor of geology from the University of British Columbia. While he did his graduate studies in some wet and bleak part of the U.K., one of his colleagues spent six arduous years studying the geology of Bermuda. He readily admitted if he had it to do over again.... Since he'd read his friend's dissertation he thought he'd spend his day here tracing the origin of the Dark & Stormy and, if time and liver allowed it, the Rum Swizzle, too. All in the interest of advancing man's knowledge.

I must confess that, once again, I did not avail myself of the opportunity to watch the pilot arrive at 6 am to guide the ship on the two hour trip to the dock. I'm figuring one way in, one way out so I'll observe the reverse trip when we leave later this afternoon.

Once again the Prinsendam's relatively small size allows us to dock right in downtown Hamilton, quite literally along the main drag. The behemoths are parked way, way far away. We spotted a couple of them when we were out and about today.

4:30 pm. Everyone is on board, the deep, chest rattling horn has been sounded and we're beginning the departure. I'd definitely come back here. Lots of gorgeous golf courses on the island so I wouldn't have to twist Jim's arm very hard.

We're now heading across the Atlantic to the Azores, four sea days. Our idyllic weather might be changing a bit, too. The temperature will still be about 70, but a good chance of showers and higher seas, going from one meter to two, which is still quite tolerable.

Time to stop and send this while the wifi signal is still strong.

Tomorrow there will be no 2 o'clock.

May 6 - 8, 2017, At sea from Fort Lauderdale to Bermuda

"Tomorrow there will be no 2 o'clock."

We had a very uneventful journey from Kennesaw to the Prinsendam. It bodes well for the trip when we AND luggage arrive at the same place at the same time.

The Prinsendam is the smallest of the Holland America ships, only 793 passengers. It's been refitted, fluffed and buffed since we were last aboard in 2011. Fortunately the powers that be did not go for flashy but rather just enhanced the old school elegance. The time of year, size of ship and amenities on board are ever so popular with a certain mature demographic. No zip lines, water slides or rock climbing for this crowd. As one woman said to me, "I used to call them elderly until I realized I was now them!" Let me just say that the cane count is high. But it's a spunky , well-traveled group from here, there and everywhere.

We walked into the dining room the first night and ran smack into our busboy from the World Cruise in 2013, now a manager in the DR. If a passenger tells any crew member, "We've sailed together before" the crew member ALways says, "Oh, yes, I remember you well." Yeah, right. But this guy wasn't faking it. He asked "Mr. Jim" if he still drank a double bourbon on A rock. Evidently he remembered as lowly busboy about three weeks into that World Cruise being sent to search every bar, cupboard and closet for another bottle of Wild Turkey  for Mr. Jim and then drawing the short straw and getting to tell Mr. Jim there was none left on the ship. The poor kid was quaking in his boots until Mr. Jim assured him that anything bottled in Kentucky would do. You betcha he remembered Mr. Jim!

The ship was scheduled to leave the Port Everglades cruise port (so conveniently located a rock's throw from the Fort Lauderdale airport) at 11 pm, our first ever night time departure. The captain announced that as  soon as all passengers and crew were aboard we would cast off, so we actually pulled away from the dock around 10:20 with calm seas, balmy temperatures and the moon above.

Bermuda is a couple of sea days away. As I write this it's midday on Monday, the second sea day. The weather has been delightful, the seas fairly calm and the service top notch. With only 793 passengers (sold out cruise), you've but to ask someone with a name tag and your bidding is done. On the first night the water in our shower came out everywhere BUT the shower head. A call to the front desk brought an engineer within minutes who installed the missing do-hickey in seconds. Oh, that there was a "Guest Services" button on the phone at home.

We've had very companionable dining companions so far. If offered we choose "open seating" rather than fixed so we can meet more people. I sat next to a couple from Mission Viejo at breakfast. Turns out she is also an alum of Harbor High, but before my time. She lived in Costa Mesa back then so sort of bristled when she found out I lived in Newport. Old vestiges of the haves and have nots.  I assured her I wasn't a Lido Isle kid (Big time "haves') but rather a Balboa Peninsula kid. It may be the land of the one percenters now, but in the 50s and 60s it certainly wasn't! We parted amicably.

Everyone seemed to spend the first sea day wandering around, scouting for the perfect activity or alternately a spot to do as little as possible. Jim made a bee line for the Explorers Lounge with the very comfy chairs with window views across the Promenade deck and the walkers to the seas beyond. I've still got a bit of wanderlust which is 90% accountable to my complete lack of a sense of direction. Trust me, on a ship this size you really have to work to get lost!

Last night was the first of three Gala Nights. HAL has ditched the term "Formal." They request that men wear a collared shirt and perhaps a jacket and ladies more cocktail than prom. Jim left his black Marrying and Burying suit at home in favor of a classic navy blue blazer, shirt, tie and khakis and blended right in. There are still some guys opting for tuxes or dinner jackets. I'd say that most of  the women took the opportunity to wear something sparkly. One couple at our table was years younger than the rest of the crowd. They both worked in the Assisted Living field. A business trip? Research?

And last night was also the first performance by the house singers and dancers. (I'd met one of the singers that day at lunch when he was demonstrating how to put all your salad bar choices in one bowl, add dressing, then top with another bowl and shake. Just as I was about to say, "How clever of you," the top bowl slipped and the salad went flying just as one of the chefs walked by. If looks could kill...) The show was 45 minutes of covers of various tunes by British artists from the Beatles to Adele. The cast was energetic and sang on key. What more could you ask?

At the end of the show the vivacious cruise director, V, announced, "Tomorrow there will be no 2 o'clock." Huh? Some kind of Bermuda Triangle thing? Evidently tomorrow we would be setting the clocks forward, not in the middle of the night but at 2 pm. It's now tomorrow at 1 pm. One hour to go. Should be interesting.