At Sea, Antarctica to Cape Horn, 1/20-22/16

1/20/16:
After lunch we headed back towards Palmer Station. As we hovered among the icebergs a few miles offshore, two Zodiacs came zooming out to pick up our visitors and take them back to their base. The skies had been getting grayer all morning and as we waved good bye to the Zodiacs and their passengers, all wearing bright orange foul weather suits, it began snowing. And the wind picked up. I'd planned to put on my tennies and do a few laps on the Promenade Deck, but as the winds topped 50 knots and the snow flurries continued, the decks were closed and it was a "snow day" at sea.

Add to the list of things we didn't do the Penguin Plunge. At 11 am with the temperature a balmy 1 degree C the passengers were invited to jump into the outdoor pool located at the stern on deck 8. To mark this insanity all participants received a certificate and mug of mulled wine.

As we turned away from Antarctica the captain advised that we'd be hitting seas of three to four meters. This prediction was confirmed when we came back from dinner and found that the stewards had brought in the cushions from the verandah furniture, a sure sign of rocky seas ahead.

1/21/16:
On sea days we continue with AU, Antartica University, with up to three lectures per day given by the three expedition experts on board. We've learned about the history, wildlife, science, accomplishments and future of the Antarctic region. A special bonus today was a presentation on ice by the Ice Pilot, Captain Dick Taylor, USCG (Ret). Dick first visited Antarctica 37 years ago aboard a Coast Guard ice breaker. He has also captained these vessels at the North Pole and on Lake Michigan. Oh, my, working aboard an ice breaker is w.o.r.k. The ships are specially designed to ride up on the ice and then slam down to make a path. Up and down, over and over dozens of times an hour. There's not enough Aleve in the world to ease that pain! Once again we all realize that living and working in these extremes is not for the faint of heart. And how dependent everyone involved in the various divisions are on each other. Dick has worked as Ice Pilot for HAL for a number of years. He mentioned that he had never seen so many of the gigantic tabular icebergs as he had on this cruise. He also kept calling this ship "thin-skinned" unlike the ice breakers with hulls two inches thick. He also reassured us that the bergs show up on "good" radar and the Zaandam's is excellent. Well, now...

The gray weather continues, also the heavy wind and seas. It has warmed up to 4 C, so no more snow, but the wind is still howling so I haven't ventured out on the Promenade Deck. Jim's read several books so far and today I finished knitting a scarf. There isn't an organized knitting group or time on this ship, but you look around any theater or lounge and you can spot needles and yarn in use. I will sometimes sit and knit and chat with a fellow traveler to learn about where they're from, what they're making.

We continue crossing the Drake Passage and should reach Cape Horn Friday (1/22) at 1 pm. It's a two day journey from Palmer Station.

1/22/16

We've passed out of the Antarctic territory, everyplace south of 60 degrees latitude. It's generally overcast and rainy with occasional patches of sunlight. The sea is gray and very choppy. The wind (55 mph at noon as I write this) is from the NW and we are heading NNW so we are constantly going up and down, not enough to knock you off your pins but enough to make walking from A to B or especially going up and down the stairs a bit of an adventure. Thank heavens there are grab rails everywhere!

This morning we learned about Admiral Byrd from Guy Guthridge who began his Antarctic experience with the National Science Foundation in 1970 as editor of the Antarctic Journal of the United States. He managed Antarctic field participation beyond the research community into the arts as well as youth and educators. His wife is very outgoing (we had lunch with her at the Uruguayan winery) and an accomplished fine arts photographer. Guy has used some of her dramatically beautiful images to illustrate his talks. Now to add books by and about Byrd to our reading list.

After Byrd, Scott Drieschman gave his last presentation, Emperor Penguins, brought to the world stage in the movie March of the Penguins. Scott began his career as Curator of Birds at Sea World, San Diego in the early 70s. He's gone on to spend the last 40 years studying penguins and sea mammals in the Arctic and Antarctic regions. He loves the Emps! He has engaging pictures of the birds demonstrating their behaviors and shares his vast knowledge in an erudite and entertaining manner. He's the professor we all wished we'd had no matter what the subject. He's  been awarded the Antarctic Service Medal for his contributions.

The third member and leader of the Expedition Team is David Bresnahan who for decades managed all US operations in the Antarctic. He's taught us a lot about the nuts and bolts of establishing and running the research stations on Antarctica as well as the scientists and support staff who live there.

All three have bona fides and then some and although all are retired from their various careers they all have an abiding passion for their fields and the enjoyment of sharing with us.

Once again I'm reminded that the best retirement gig ever is as an expert employed by a cruise line. You get to visit and revisit your favorite places, give three different hour-long talks during the cruise and then spend the rest of the time chatting about your favorite subjects with people who are happy to be along for the ride.

It's 2 pm ship's time, noon EST, and after picking up a Chilean pilot who will stay with us until the end of our cruise in Valparaiso, we're rounding the Cape east to west. Normally I'd layer up and hit the forward deck to take pictures BUT although it's warmed up to 8 C, the wind is gale force, we are heading straight into it and the apparent winds have ranged upward of 70 mph. I will not be taking one for the team this time. Every once in a while I grab my camera, put a death grip on the door handle and snap a picture or two from our verandah. Trust me, lots of rocky, windswept islands and choppy, windswept seas.

Update  at 2:23. The wind is right against our verandah door making it impossible to open. It's also sleeting a bit and the clouds are now at sea level. I shall choose to enjoy this inside and wonder how both early and contemporary sailors ever make this trip.