It Takes An Army

Terra Cotta Warriors in Xi'an

Friday in Xi'an

Xi'an has loads of tourists along with its citizenry. Tourism is a big part of their economy so they make it easy to access the interesting places and keep them nice and tidy.  Way back when, the city had three walls: inner, outer and second outer. Over the  centuries they've been burned and then rebuilt during the Tang and Ming dynasties.  Today only the inner wall is still standing and surrounding the original city. It was first  erected using mortar made from kiwi juice and mushy rice. You use what you have. It has been resurfaced with more modern materials. The wall is a square with big guard houses at every corner. There is a moat adjacent that is now a series of parks. You can walk, bike or ride in a golf cart along the length of the top of the wall, 14 km. It's only 76 stone steps up (we're all counting steps by now) to reach the top. Once there it's a nice, smooth surface maybe 50 feet across. Inside the wall there are height restrictions for the buildings but outside, anything goes. (more on that later)

A special welcoming ceremony had been arranged for us at the North Gate. We had no idea what to expect and were speechless when we were each given a key to the gate of the wall, a passport to meet the emperor and then an honor guard of soldiers dressed in Tang era gear to escort us through the gate and into a large parade ground where we were entertained by dancers and drummers all in gorgeous costumes and then met the emperor and empress. Quite a way to kick off the day. Those peons on the top of the wall were looking down, taking pictures like mad and wondering who in the world we were to rate this big hoo-hah.

And then by bus (same crazy street madness to entertain us en route) to the main event: the pits of the Terra Cotta Warriors. There is a big (toll) highway leading out there past farms and wheat fields and then, through the gate and into a three ring circus of shops and vendors and restaurants and flags flying and noise. Always in China, noise. We got a ride out to the pits on trams, about half a mile or so and then into the building housing Pit #1. I'm typing this on our flight to Shang Hai so can't look up the exact dimensions of this building, but it is at least as large as an indoor football stadium. There is an elevated walk way around the perimeter where you can look down on the Terra Cotta Warriors. It is an astounding sight. So much so that the visitors are almost quiet. The soldiers standing in ranks were all in pieces when uncovered and have been put back together. Ditto for the horses. The chariots were wooden so have long rotted away. Every person and animal is life size and distinctive. It took 700,000 laborers four decades to create all this.

There are two other pits also covered by buildings. The archeologists have been able to determine which figures were infantry or archers or officers or generals. In many areas of the pits, the broken pieces lie in situ so you can see what they looked like before restoration (a big jumble of broken pieces covered by yards of dirt). The Chinese government doesn't have the funds or knowledge to uncover, protect and restore any more. The figures were originally brightly painted but that fades quickly when uncovered and exposed to the air.

There is quite a complex of buildings and museums and shops around the site of the tomb. As one guide book I read put it, at last a destination in China that really lives up to the hype. It was quite hot (there is sun in Xi'an!) and we walked a lot (for some reason, the trams that take you TO the pits return empty leaving you to hoof it back to the entrance) but it's definitely the highlight of our trip. And everyone likes the city of Xi'an.

Back to the hotel for 45 minutes to rest and regroup for the Tang Dynasty Dinner Theater. Much to our surprise, the food was excellent and the show was spectacular. A 30 piece orchestra playing strange and old Chinese instruments accompanied a troupe of 30 or so singers and dancers in fabulous costumes recreating dances once performed in the Tang court. It only lasted an hour or so which was just right.

Tomorrow we're finishing up in Xi'an and then flying to Shang Hai and on to Suzhou, the Venice of the East.